If Venice is a one-of-a-kind gem in the world, the sestiere of Castello represents its most authentic and tranquil soul. Far from the crowds that swarm San Marco and Rialto, Castello offers an intimate atmosphere, with quiet calli (alleys), picturesque views, and a rich historical and cultural heritage. In this article, I’ll guide you through an unforgettable walk in this special corner of the Serenissima.
A Gateway to Venetian History
The sestiere of Castello, the largest of Venice’s six districts, takes its name from an ancient fortress that has long since disappeared. This neighborhood has a genuine and popular character, yet it is deeply connected to the city’s glorious past, thanks to the presence of the Arsenale, the core of the maritime power of the Venetian Republic.
Starting Tip: Begin your walk at the San Zaccaria vaporetto stop and head toward the Arsenale, a symbol of Venice’s maritime heritage. The majestic entrance towers will greet you, evoking the grandeur of the Serenissima.
Between Calli and Campi: The Charm of Castello
1. The Arsenale and Its History
The Arsenale served as the city’s industrial engine for centuries, where Venice’s renowned galleys were built. While full access is limited today, the surrounding area offers fascinating views and the chance to visit the Naval Historical Museum, which narrates Venice’s long maritime tradition.
Tip: If you visit Venice during the Art or Architecture Biennale, many of the exhibitions are held at the Arsenale. It’s a perfect opportunity to see this area in a contemporary light.
2. Campo Ruga: Neighborhood Life
Continue on to Campo Ruga, a place where time seems to stand still. Here, you’ll find children playing, locals chatting, and laundry hanging between houses. It’s the lively heart of the district, where you can observe the daily life of Venetian residents.
3. Basilica of Saints John and Paul
Your walk will then lead you to the majestic Basilica of Saints John and Paul, one of Venice’s most imposing religious buildings, known as the city’s “Pantheon” for the numerous doges buried there.
Don’t miss the monumental Ospedale Civile, a Renaissance building adjacent to the basilica, featuring a rare and beautiful courtyard.
A Peaceful Oasis: The Biennale Gardens
Castello is not just about history but also nature. The Biennale Gardens are a perfect spot for a relaxing break. This park, designed during the Napoleonic era, is now home to the famous Biennale but also offers shaded spaces ideal for resting and enjoying some peace far from the hustle and bustle.
Photography Tip: From here, you can capture stunning views of the lagoon, especially at sunset.
Between Gastronomy and Tradition
Castello is also the ideal place for a culinary pause. Here are some must-visit stops:
- Trattoria Al Covo: High-quality Venetian cuisine, featuring fresh seafood and local ingredients.
- Osteria alla Tana: A more informal spot, perfect for a cicchetto and a glass of wine (ombra de vin).
- Pasticceria Rosa Salva: End your walk with a typical Venetian dessert, such as a frittella or a bussolà.
Why Visit Castello?
The sestiere of Castello offers a different side of Venice—one of Venetians, traditions, and tranquility. Walking through its calli is a chance to discover a part of the city away from the spotlight yet incredibly rich in charm.
If you’re looking for an authentic experience, filled with genuine encounters and timeless atmospheres, Castello is the place for you. Wear comfortable shoes, get ready to lose yourself among alleys and squares, and let yourself be surprised by the magic of this unique district.
Ready to experience a different Venice?
