There is a bustling Venice, teeming with people incessantly bustling through the alleys of the city at all hours of the day and night, in any season of the year. And then there is a quieter Venice, away from the most visited places in the historic center. We are talking about the island of San Michele, situated between the island of Murano and the Fondamenta Nove.
Uncovering the History of San Michele Island
The origin of this pleasant place has a unique story: initially, two islands, San Michele and San Cristoforo della Pace, were located at this point in the lagoon. Since 1804, burying the deceased within churchyards and churches was no longer allowed, and Venice also needed to find a solution to this issue. Napoleon Bonaparte himself chose the island of San Cristoforo to host Venice’s new cemetery. Soon, however, one island did not seem sufficient in the medium term, leading to the decision to expand it by including the nearby island of San Michele. This choice involved a complex operation, lasting from 1835 to 1870: filling in the small canal that separated the two islands to create a single one, making the expansion of the cemetery more practical. The name used for the new expanded island from then on was San Michele.
The Church of San Michele Arcangelo: A Renaissance Gem
However, in this place, long before the realization of Venice’s cemetery, the church of San Michele Arcangelo was erected in the 10th century, strongly desired by the Briosa and Brustolana families. In the second half of the 15th century, the church was rebuilt; the task was entrusted to the architect Mauro Codussi, already the designer of significant buildings in the city of Venice, who between 1469 and 1479 created the first Renaissance church in the lagoon. Later, the church was expanded and fell into ruin under Austrian rule in the 1800s when it was used as a political prison; among others, the famous writer and patriot Silvio Pellico was imprisoned here. Today, the Church is entrusted to the Conventual Franciscans of Saint Francis.
Exploring the Tranquil Cemetery of San Michele
Visiting this place of peace and tranquility by dedicating a few hours of your day during your stay in Venice is highly recommended. The cemetery of San Michele on the island has a very simple structure, with a Greek cross plan, a perimeter of red solid bricks, decorated with Istrian stone. Until 1950, the entrance to the cemetery was open on the side of Fondamenta Nove, and every year, on November 2, the day when dear departed ones are remembered, a bridge of boats was set up. This tradition was interrupted for years until 2019 when the ancient tradition, highly appreciated by all citizens, was reinstated.
Inside, the cemetery is divided into three areas, according to religious confession: Catholic, Orthodox, and Evangelical. A favorite destination for Romantic poets and writers such as Shelley, Byron, and Ruskin, the cemetery today houses the graves of famous individuals like Igor Stravinsky, Sergey Diaghilev, and Ezra Pound.
How to Reach San Michele Island
If you are enjoying a pleasant vacation in Venice, including this stop in your tours will be straightforward. You can reach the island of San Michele and the monumental cemetery by taking the Vaporetto from Fondamenta Nuove or Murano. Once there, allow yourself one or two hours to appreciate this place of peace and serenity, surrounded by the waters of the lagoon.
